Tiger Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 I will completely agree that tracing is never exact. I will doubt if the errors are multiplied that much though. If you scale up by a number then yes, if something is a little wrong from the start, it will be a lot wrong in the end. In this case, the trace is scaled up using a reference, so the errors shouldn't be giganormus. I don't think it will do any difference if you trace a small JPG or a big JPG, the faults will be there anyway. It is very likely that AutoCAD handles images differently now that they are treated pretty much the same as x-refs in that they are not saved in the drawing. I could just be behind my times and remember how it was way back when I attached a single TIF and the drawing became unusable. I will however still claim anecdotal evidence. My drawings function better the smaller (area in drawing-wise) JPGs, TIF and PDFs I insert. After I have scaled them, the drawings tend to be way harder to navigate around in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobDraw Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yorel, why did you ask where to put the gasoline in the subject? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yorel, why did you ask where to put the gasoline in the subject? To give an idea of my knowledge of Autocad................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 I figured out how to change the scale when the jpg is inserted, but had to insert mutiple times adjusting the factor each time until I got the overall length to within a half inch of the scale drawing (which will suffice for this drawing). My goal is to loft 2 frames (The Ship's frames) in 3D, and try a CNC machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 For future reference I can say that to get the JPG to the rigth size, it's easier either to use the commande SCALE and use the Reference option. Or you can simply highlight the JPG, type PR to get the Properties-palette up. Then find the Scale section and change the numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 I finally got the 2D drawing completed, switched to 3D, Still working my way around orientation of the drawing. Can't figure out how to make a notch 1/2 the width (1/8") by 3/4" down from the top in the side view. I can't figure out how to post the DWG of my frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 There are a couple of ways you can notch your wall. Yes, it would help if you posted an actual DWG file. Do so by first clicking on the "Go Advanced" button then at the next screen find and click on the Paperclip icon. Upload your drawing and attach it to your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 For some reason the thumbnail in manage attachments has a X in it. Possibly because I don't have Autocad on this computer? If it doesn't work, I'll reload it. Test 3.dwg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Why are you doing this using surfaces instead of solids? Think about it. You aren't putting a skin on the boat like laying a piece of sheet metal over a frame. You are working with solid wooden members are you not? Jeez.....splines. I hate splines. How can the notch be 1/8" deep? I don't think that is right. Boy, you have a lot of little tiny pieces of lines hiding everywhere. I should have run OVERKILL on this drawing before trying to work with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 How do I change it to solids? I'm using splines, because another tutorial using Autocad 2002 showed it being done this way. Is there another way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Well to create your notch, while still using splines and utilizing surfaces, you'd have to go back to your 2D geometry I think then extrude again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Anybody care for a rib? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Starting with AutoCAD 2010, I believe, one could use the SPLINEDIT command to convert a spline into a polyline. If that does not work for some reason you can always try the FLATTEN command and say "No" to deleting hidden lines. I sort of took this approach and when done I created a REGION and then used the PRESSPULL command to give it a height of .25 (seems tiny, you must be doing this for a scale model?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 I'm back to my 2D view. I don't know if my lines are joined or not. When I click on one of the splines, it is selected, but nothing else. I thought I had to have a continuous line around the whole drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReMark Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 A continuous line to do what? I gave you the method above I used to create a solid. You should be able to do it as well unless you prefer to work with surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Well, I've got it back to a 3D solid now, and it's looking ptetty good. It is for 1/4" scale model of the USS Endeavour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadgad Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Well, I've got it back to a 3D solid now, and it's looking ptetty good. It is for 1/4" scale model of the USS Endeavour. You seem to be making great headway with the program and the process in whole. Now that you are able to upload dwg files it makes it much easier for everybody reading your posts to enjoy what you are doing, and to help you. I really admire your moxy and spunk. Nothing to it, but to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Yeah, but it's the terminology that throws me a nasty curve. 90 percent of Autocad I'll never use. I'm only interested in the tools I'll use to loft my frames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadgad Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) Yeah, but it's the terminology that throws me a nasty curve. 90 percent of Autocad I'll never use. I'm only interested in the tools I'll use to loft my frames. My guess is that the average user, amongst professionals who use it everyday, probably doesn't use much more than 15% of the Autocad Vanilla (meaning the basic version) program, if that. Some less, some much more. The good news is that one .dwg file is worth a million words (assuming all the words are right). In this way when the jargon stands in the way, your image will shine a light. Edited May 19, 2012 by Dadgad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorel Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 This frame I'm working on now is one of the midship frames, ie the planks set square on the edge of the frame. Next, I'll try one of the fore or aft frames where the frame has to be beveled for the plank to set flush on a bend. Then I'll go back and start from scratch on this one again, etc, etc, etc. Practice, practice, practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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