printing 3D isometric?

[kkennedy]

I'm using autocad 2000 and I need to print my 3D model with my layout template. When I copy my 3D object from the model page and try and post it to my layout, it shows up as a top view, 2D wire frame. I need to be able to print it as a 3D isometric. help please

[ReMark]

Why would you copy your 3D object from model space and put it in your layout?

 

Create a viewport in your layout. It is the viewport that allows us to see the objects we have created back in model space. It doesn't matter if those objects are 2D or 3D.

[kkennedy]

I would only do that cause that's what I do with my 2D objects. I've never drawn anything in 3D, only a 2D in isometric. That would work perfectly in this situation except that I need to include a u-bolt in iso and I can't seem to make it work. This is what I'm working with. I really need it to be an outline. Any ideas on drawing a u-bolt in 2D iso?

[ReMark]

An outline? Do you mean a wireframe?

[ReMark]

The image below is an actual screen shot of a layout. Two viewports were created. In the viewport on the left we have a pipe support detail; visual style = conceptual. In the viewport on the right we have an enlargement of the pipe clamp; visual style = 2D wireframe.

Is this what you are trying to do?

 

I must apologize for the drawing. It was one of my earliest attempts at 3D and I got some things wrong. I use it here primarily because the "U" clamp is kind of like a U-bolt.

 

[kkennedy]

This is basically what I'm trying to get to, only with u-bolts added. I drew this in 2D iso. I know this is the same as a 3D Hidden but the u-bolts don't look right in hidden. I would use wire frame but there are too many lines and I can't seem to remove some of them without losing the part.

[ReMark]

Ok then...add the U-bolts. I don't see what the problem is at this point.

[kkennedy]

I was able to do it by offsetting my iso circle and modifying it to make a u-bolt. I'm not sure but there has to be an easier way to do it. thanks for your help on the 3D.

[ReMark]

A U-bolt can be constructed in 3D by drawing the centerline of the bolt and then extruding a circle along this "path". You're using 2000 that's why I did not suggest using the sweep command.

[MikeScott]

I exhausted the 2d-iso route before going to 3d as well. There's no 2d-iso quickfix, and the difficulty in "faking it" is that you have to change the surface you're drawing as you go around the curve.

 

It's hard to explain that, but if you physically take a ubolt in-hand and draw a line on the outside, and the line on the inside, and then hold it at a isometric perspective in-front of you, you'll notice you're not seeing much of those two lines.

 

It was drawing these kinds of things that led me to taking the plunge into 3d. It's not as hard as you might think, and you end-up with a stronger representation.

 

Using ReMarks suggestion, you could be done in seconds, rather than minutes. You could also use "gouraud" shading to get rid of the extra lines you'd see in the hide command, and it adds a little depth to it... the light the grey you use, the less dramatic the 3d, and the more it resembles an Isometric drawing.

 

However.. let's tackle this as a 2d iso exercise for you:

 

You can draw the pipes and stuff so you are familiar with drawing lines from the quad points of an isometric ellipse.

 

Attack this as three separate pieces.. the vertical posts, and then the curve. You can do the posts without assistance (just like doing the straight pipes). Leave Isocircles at the tops of the vertical posts.

 

Draw spokes on the top of the post, crossing the centerline of the isocircles at the top of the post (using quads, and various other "slices" across the centerline).

 

The only way to accurately do an isometric U-bolt is to do a WHOLE BUNCH of isometric ellipses from corresponding ends of the isometric vertical portions of the U-bolt.. from all quad points, and crosssection points to the OPPOSITE side of the isocircle you're arcing to..

 

Ie- from outside Quad position on the starting Post, to the same outside quad position on the target post (even though that target quad will be hidden from view).

 

You'll need to draw lines from startpoint to endpoint on each ellipse, so you can trim away the lower halves of each one as you draw it.

 

You can't just copy them, each one requires a new centerpoint and new diameter, or you'll notice that the lines "twist" incorrectly, and align with the wrong side of the target cylinder. (ie- inside to outside, instead of inside to inside)

 

They WILL twist if you do it right, but they'll do it correctly... (Try copying the crap out of the half-ellipse, and you'll see the wierd twist issue for yourself).

 

The more isolines you use, the more accurate the resulting image will be. I strongy recommend doing it as detailled as possible, and then saving the resultant shape as a Block.. You won't EVER want to do that again!

 

Then you do a Polyline (pline) arc that goes from intersection to intersection around the outside silhouette, and then do another one on the inside silhouette. You might want to use your autosnap set to intersection and zoom WAY in to ensure you're hitting the correct intersections.. Then you can erase everything except the polylines, and the finished curves will be selectable as single arcs.

 

Compare these directions to ReMark's directions and you should see fairly quickly the advantage to just doing it in 3d.. 2d-iso can quickly become tedious and difficult, especially when a pipe size has to change during design, or you need a new perspective angle due to 45-degree turns or something.

 

3d is tons easier.. it's just a matter of getting comfortable with UCS settings (in the tool menu) 3d views, extrusions (two versions), the slice tool, Union, Subtraction, and plines.

Also learn to use the Move/Copy commands with 0,0,0 entered as your base point.

 

You can go other routes into 3d, just straight-up 3d solids, but with your knowledge of isometrics at this point, and what you're trying to achieve with piping, I think you'd find this a smoother transition for you... and plenty of folks here to help you along the way.

 

Oh.. and the hide command isn't what you'd want to use.. you'd want gauraud shading on a very light colored item.. that'll highlight the sillhouette the way you want it to without all the extra lines involved.

[kkennedy]

mike thanks for the info. definitely helps. I got the look I was looking for.